It takes some reprogramming on the VFD. No big deal.
Sorry this reply is a few weeks late. It seems I’m good at writing an email, just not great at pressing the send button.
I think any type of water based liquids would be a bust with MDF. I really don’t need the Stay Puft Marshmallow Man showing up in my shop.
The Vortex tube sounds like a “cool” idea (sorry sometimes I just can’t help myself) but too rich for my blood.
I also found the Fog Buster overpriced for what it is. That said, I’m using one I built based on a Tom Lipton design using a one liter soda bottle and a Noga MC17001 Mini-Cool that I think works just as well and is under $150 . The soda bottle was free but the Noga part is $137 on Amazon. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G3wUoPdK_ms
Tom’s design would have been hard for me to replicate so I set off to see if I could 3D print one. FDM printed parts even with 100% infill just wouldn’t stand up to the high pressure air and liquid and not leak like a sieve, ask me how I know. Since FDM printing was a bust I tried SDM printing. It was a step in the right direction but I found the standard resins were not up to the task. I did finally find an engineering resin that would not only stand up to the high pressure air, be water tight and allow the final machining necessary to make a usable part.
Tom likes using 35 psi air but my design should work up to 150psi.
I machine fast and light and virtually dry. It is lubercation meant to keep the chips from welding to the end mill, not cooling. I don’t think I have ever seen it on the MDF.
Vortex cooling is for chip removal and cooling the stock, not the end mill. The Zrn coated end mills like to be warm anyways.
I have found that on long cuts the aluminum will expand enough to put you out of tolerance. So the vortex cooler is for machining large chunks of aluminum like aircraft spars and wing fittings.
Regular sheet and everything below 1/4" or 6mm I actually use the dust manifold and the suction for all of the cooling and chip removal.
As for the Fogbuster, worth every penny I paid for it. It’s like that other insanely priced piece of plastic in my shop, the Oneida Dust Deputy 
I can understand trying to save money. I just got through paying $700 a piece for 12mm x 350mm Thomson ball screws.
If you can make it yourself, go for it. You can 3D print out of high temp plastic like CPE+ a vortex cooler. The top of it gets really hot but the CPE+ can take it for the most part.