Good two sided tape for hold work holding

I was ripping about 80 sheets of 1/4" Douglas Fir Marine Grade A-A ply and failure rate was about 1 in 5 with the CA/Blue tape. Once I started using the Xfasten the failure rate was exclusively dull tools. I have never had a piece peel up since.

PS. The time to apply the CA/Blue tape is way longer than Xfasten.

Two sided tape or superglue is not the way to go for production work. I use it for one-offs. If I am doing runs of multiples I’ll build some kind of fixture that allows for clamping.

For plywood production (if you don’t want to deal with a vacuum system) get yourself a composite nailer. So fast and easy.

I have the Omar nailer and it makes plywood hold-down a breeze.

Yep, like I said, the amount you will spend on tape alone (excluding the time you spend sticking it on, peeling it off, etc) will buy you 4 top of the line Lamb 122178-18 motors.

That composite nail gun thing is a great way to lose money :rofl: Damaging a spoilboard is a huge hole in your piggy bank. After a day of cutting you should see faint traces across your spoilboard. On wet days you will see areas where the moisture as pulled the material high in low bonder spots but that is where the dehumidifier saves you money.

1 Like

Haven’t had a problem with spoilboard warpage. But the humidity is fairly constant where I got the CNC. Maybe I’m just lucky :grinning:

I’m still trying to imagine using double sided tape on a run of 80 sheets of plywood. That must have been a nightmare…. Glad you got the vacuum system worked out.

It was slower than I would have liked. But I made a jig to lay down the tape straight for me so that part was actually trivial. Getting the tape back off and changing tools was the real killer.

Thus the tool carousel project.

The dust also was really bad which is where my obsession with dust manifold design come from.

Yes, I will be releasing the plans for that one as well later this year. These things do not cost $3k and you don’t measure the performance in PSI. There is a lot of BS in that market.

1 Like

I’m sure you know this so maybe for the folks new to the that tape, if you want to get it off anything just grab a wad of it and use it as a puller, it loves to stick to itself…

Ya, that was the ONLY way I could get the crappy carpet tape removed when I was using that.

You can have my composite nailer when you pry it from my cold, wet, clammy, scabby hands. Hopefully that’s enough of a disincentive…

My spoilboard is fine, it just has a number of plastic dots flush with the surface after breaking them off to release my parts.

Wholeheartedly agree

I have to admit this, when I look at videos and photos of people’s machines I can’t help but notice their spoilboards.

If I can see deep lines and grooves on their spoilboards its like seeing somebody making food with dirt under their fingernails and no gloves. I just can’t “unsee” it.

Yeah, sounds OCD and I agree. But one day you will wake up and realize that spoilboard is a statement on your skill (or lack thereof) as a machinist.

It’s not just the cuts and grooves, its the damage you did in trying to immobilize your stock.

You have these wonderful precision machines but their users can’t seem to keep that very important surface clean and flat. Nothing is going to come off that machine even remotely as good as the machine can process because that work surface is just trashed!

And it’s not even that hard to do! :stuck_out_tongue:

That nail gun has a place in making fixtures and jigs but don’t use them to hold stock. There are so many better ways to do it.

Excuse me while I go wash my hands again :rofl:

1 Like

Some people don’t have the luxury of working in a climate-controlled environment and, well, things change. I feel like subnoize is coming from a vertical mill background where cutting into your cast iron base is considered a rookie move.

Sometimes I tell my CAM the probably twisted tree carcass is 0.75" then touch off on a spot that is actually 0.7325" and I’ve got a small groove in my spoilboard afterward. The spoilboard has been just a little bit spoiled! And I move on to the next project, confident that I haven’t unleashed any more ghouls than usual.

washes hands because that’s just good hygiene

Also I just wanted to say, it’s OK if you’re a woodworker and not a machinist! Not everyone aspires to the same end goal or level of precision. Some of us just want to cut out stuff we design or flatten slabs and not be compared to established machinists. The world has room for both!


It is as much a safety concern as it is a product quality concern. If you are cutting into your spoilboard you also run the risk of breaking end mills, stock coming loose and crashing expensive spindles, cutting aluminum extrusion.

My dirty fingernails thing was a poor analogy.

You touch off the Z to that spoilboard you spent all that time tramming spindles to and facing flat.

In your CAM all of your cuts are in the +Z. This is exactly opposite of metal machining norms.

I would advise against teaching and promoting bad and dangerous practices with advanced machinery like CNC machines. Doesn’t matter if you see yourself as a “woodworker” or a “machine operator.” My problem was trying to be humorous. I apologize.

CNC machines are terrible substitutes for table saws and planers. Just say’n :slight_smile:

This guy explains it better than I do;

I tried some of that X Fasten tape. It’s the best two sided tape I’ve ever used:

1 Like