ER32 Collet+Nut Damage

I’ve been running into an issue with the Avid ER32 collets and nuts getting damaged during normal use. It looks like galling/scraping at the interface and I’ve been trying to track down the cause.

For torquing, I’ve been using a Martin Precision Tools ER32 torque wrench adapter and applying their conversion factor to reach the 100 ft-lb that they recommend on their website. I use the avid iso30 tool tightening fixture when installing bits and I am careful to remove any dust/debris. I haven’t had too many tool changes either - maybe 5 max per tool holder and I am seeing the same issue occur on most of the tool holders I use. I don’t believe the bits are slipping nor do I think the collet/nut is rubbing during cutting. I think if they were slipping during cuts I would be seeing more of a smooth scrape vs the bumpy one that’s occurring here.

My current theory is that the collet may be slightly rotating or twisting inside the nut during tightening, exposing sharp edges at the interface and scraping material off the nut. Once that begins, it seems to snowball. Burrs build up, the contact becomes more uneven, and the collet no longer loads uniformly and flexes visibly unevenly when torqued because some of the slots in the collet appear to catch burrs on the nut.

I have found a couple threads where others appear to be seeing very similar damage:

They appear to attribute it to either out of spec collets/nuts or play in the spindle. I checked my spindle taper with dial indicator and the runout looks perfect.

I’ve already ordered new collets and nuts, but wanted to see if anyone else is having similar issues so I can avoid having to replace them again in the future.

Are you ensuring the collets are snapped into the collet nut before inserting a bit and threading onto the collet holder? I’ve seen people have issues with this using handheld routers. Just a thought.

Yep- they are fully snapped in.

I use just a little moly grease in the collet nut.

Usual preface: I’m with PreciseBits, so while I try to only post general information take everything I say with the understanding that I have a bias.

That very much looks like failure from too much torque. 100 ft-lb may be too much. I’ll explain but fair warning it gets complicated.

So to start with ER collets were originally invented by Rego-Fix. It’s actually what the “R” in ER stands for. Where pretty much all these torque numbers come from is their recommendation. However, if you look at their catalog that these come from these numbers are not listed as a “recommended” torque but MAX torque before damage. So right off the bat there a potential issue with materials and finish (hardness, matching taper, etc.) where these might not be correct for other manufactures. Also keep in mind that for most collet sizes max torque depends on the bore size and nut thread. Unlike other ER sizes it’s not split up very much for ER32 which might be a problem.

That out of the way there’s a few reasons that one would want to apply more torque to a collet. The biggest one is slip resistance. Basically how much force it takes to spin the tool inside the collet or pull the tool out of the collet. The second would be runout or how much the bit spins off the center axis of the spindle. There’s also a vibration dampening number but that goes even further into the weeds and I’m not going to address it other than you need a lot of cutting force (e.g. heavy metal cutting) for it to functionally matter.

For the most part unless you are aggressively milling metal with large tooling or trying to use a poor fit/worn collet you are never going to come close to needing the max slip resistance and therefore max wrench applied torque.

The runout number is more complicated. Basically there’s a minimum amount of torque you need to properly compress the collet and get good runout. However, in our testing this is not even close to max torque. In fact runout typically gets worse as you approach max torque. We don’t have enough data yet to publish recommended numbers. But here’s some of our initial data.

This is from our internal data and only on a single ER16 1/4" collet with a mini nut (max torque 24Nm/18ft-lb. It’s from 480 data points. The face measurement is at the face of the collet, RMT is 1" out. Again, this is not enough data to do more than show the pattern we’ve seen. We’ll probably put something out when we feel we have enough data. Units are in thou (0.001"/ 0.0254mm).

This pattern basically plays out in every collet size and bore we have tested. Meaning that at least for the data we have collected so far max torque will give you worse runout with greater slip resistance. However, unless you need the greater slip resistance (heavy metal milling, poor or worn collet) you should never use it. There’s much more advantage to the runout reduction than the slip resistance increase (plus not possibly damaging or wearing the parts faster).

I don’t have a lot of data yet on ER32. The initial set says torque for a 1/4" should be somewhere around 25-30 ft-lb for the best runout. But again I currently have limited data. What I’ve been using as a stop gap for now is the bore range to torque for a given collet. So for a ER32 1-3mm bore is listed as 18ft-lb and over 3mm is listed as 100 ft-lb. Max bore size is 22mm so 18ft-lb + ~4.3ft-lb extra per mm over 3 making 1/4" ~32ft-lb. That’s not a perfect number by any means but it seems to be working a lot better for our customers than going to MAX torque for the collet size.

To explain the above a bit. Looking at all the ER collet and bore sizes the smaller the bore the lower the max torque. There’s a number of reasons for that but I’ve been long winded enough. The calculation let’s you fractionally increment with less chance of higher runout or damage. But still getting more slip resistance per bore diameter.

One final thing. As a general guideline we don’t recommend using collets, toolholders, and nuts dry. You should never have a lubricant in the bore of the collet but all the tapered surfaces should have something like a dry lube or mono layer of a light oil (e.g. penetrating oil) on them. We have been involved in the steel rule die industry for decades and not doing this was the primary reason for spindle rebuilds and rapid collet, nut, and toolholder wear. It was so bad in that industry that they were having to rebuild their spindles every couple years. We eventually started making a lubricant for it and applying that to those parts basically eliminated rebuilds and tool holder sticking while increasing the life of the other parts massively. Probably didn’t help that the spindle distributor was telling everyone to clean all those with alcohol either…

Hope that’s useful. Let me know if there’s something I can help with.

I’ve been using an Amana torque wrench for my ER-20 collets - I usually use the lower torque setting option. Here is the details on the Amana torque wrench for ER-32 collets.

Nm (DR1) 66 - 70
Nm (DR2) 120 - 130
Ft/lb 51 - 95
Hope that helps. -scott

Thanks all, extremely helpful! I agree that over-torquing/lack of lubricant fits the symptoms well.

@TDA Can you go into more detail about what the exact lubrication product and proper application procedure would be for tool install/taper maintenance?

We make a product for it and I try to stay away from anything that could be seen as marketing or sales. I’ll PM you the ones we make.

In general though you want a low viscosity, non-tacky oil. Usually penetrating oils work well for this. The idea is to clean all the tapers and leave behind a layer of that oil as it will help protect against oxidation (increase friction and wear) and provide a bit of lubrication. If you can find one with dry lube in them (PTFE, boron nitride, tungsten disulfide, etc.) those will work better long term.

Process wise you want to apply and then remove all but the mono layer. So wet applicator with oil rub into everything. Get a dry applicator and remove all excess.

For to the inside tapers (spindle and tool holder) it’s best if you can spin them up and use a cotton swab to apply and drag from top to bottom to remove debris. Probably can’t do that with the spindle though as most ATC ones can’t be run without a tool holder. I’d also use a cotton swab for the inside of the nut taper and threads. For the outside tapers something like a microfiber cloth to apply and then remove all the excess. This would be for the collet (both ends), and toolholder.

Variations on the above would be if you have a build up of lacquer, old oil, or dirt you want to repeat this until the cloth/cotton swabs are clean when removing the excess. If you have a dry lube in the oil multiple applications to get it to fill the gaps.

Do NOT get any in the inside of the collet bore. If you do use something like acetone or brake clean on a cotton swab to remove the oil. Yes it will make that surface prone to oxidation and all of the above. But it’s the weak point of the slip resistance and you need it free of lubricant.