Squaring Axes on the Benchtop Pro

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I’m looking for guidance on squaring the axes on the Benchtop Pro. I have a 3x2 custom configuration.

I am pretty sure I have the pair of Y-axis slides parallel enough to each other, and therefore the table assembly planar enough. I achieved this with large granite parallels and a 2 micron dial test indicator on a Noga arm clamped to a linear bearing per side. Once assembled, those granite parallels seem to rest anywhere on the table extrusions with no rocking, so obviously I’m satisfied with that.

But beyond that, things get weird. The only places that could be considered adjustable are covered by several layers of assembly which are dependent upon it, so if I want to try to insert a shim I would have to disassemble pretty much the whole machine and then hope that I put it back straight before taking another reading. Because of this, I don’t personally consider anything below the X-axis gantry slide to be practically adjustable.

The X-axis slide and its 80x160 backing extrusion have two axes to contend with: 1) L-R parallelism with the table, and 2) F-B perpendicularity with the table. The first is easy with a dial test indicator on a Noga arm clamped to a linear bearing and reading on a granite parallel, but the second seems to require the Z-axis to be installed to check its motion.

Just when I thought I had solved the alignment of the x-axis slide and reinstalled all of the dust covers, I realized that the z-axis motion needed F-B tilt alignment that shimming between the linear bearing base plate and the t-slot plate didn’t seem to solve. I have uninstalled and reinstalled the z-axis assembly probably ten or twenty times at this point, so I feel like I need to step back and ask what others have done to align these axes.

I feel that shimming directly under the z-axis assembly would only result in the slide itself flexing to conform, rather than improving alignment. This is not a Hermle, so I expect some needle movement here and accept that it won’t be perfect.

So again, just wondering what you guys have done.

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I don’t have the benchtop, but I do have a 4x8 and a 4x10, They are both spot on. I take a piece of glass and a machinist level and using paper shims I level the glass til it is 90 deg to the world, then take your tramming tool or if you don’t have one chuck up a a dti and start traming, Right and left are easy, if you have to adjust the nod I use feeler gauge stock for shims, keep fighting it till you get it within a few thou and you are done. You should not have to shim any linear rails or the like.

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I appreciate the response, and value your experience tramming your machine. The Benchtop Pro is VERY different than the larger routers, for better or for worse.

I know exactly what needs to be aligned, but the ideal sequence seems to be physically impossible to follow. That’s why I’m looking to other Benchtop Pro owners who have done this work before.

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