I’d like to do some very fine detail chamfering on shallow square-edge pockets where baltic birch grain splintering is almost guaranteed - at least when the exposed top layer would be a cross cut. Sanding at this scale would be a nightmare…
It would be the perfect place for a downcut 1/4" 60 or 90 degree v-bit.
It doesn’t seem like that bit exists.
Why is that?
Recommendations?
Sanding mops can do wonders for fuzzies in detailed carves like that
I have personally never seen a down cut V bit but that doesn’t mean they don’t exist….
Check these out. I have one but have not used it yet…
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I don’t know what bits you are using, but I have noticed a huge difference between the Vbits like this https://www.amazon.com/Whiteside-Router-Bits-1502-90-Degree/dp/B000A804DA/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2NDB7REXJ05QG&keywords=whiteside+v+groove+router+bit&qid=1701487316&sprefix=whiteside+V%2Caps%2C151&sr=8-5
and the replaceable insert ones like this: https://www.amazon.com/Amana-Tool-Signmaking-Lettering-Engraving/dp/B00IDEOLQO/ref=sr_1_7?crid=VFMWDLC1XY0R&keywords=amana%2Bv%2Bbit%2Bset&qid=1701487400&sprefix=amana%2Bvbit%2Bset%2Caps%2C163&sr=8-7&th=1
I don’t know if its the Amana edge geometries, or just that they are extremely sharp, but I don’t use any other Vbit any more.
Then for the few remaining fuzzies, either those sanding mops Eric showed, or these work well https://www.amazon.com/Mixiflor-Abrasive-Woodwork-Polish-Grinder/dp/B08D689WD4/ref=sr_1_3?crid=UUSMFUI7CEWM&keywords=nylon+sanding+wheel+for+drill&qid=1701487510&sprefix=nylon+sandi%2Caps%2C149&sr=8-3
Use them from all 4 sides with a really detailed carving. The 600 grit will almost burnish the carving and make it shiny.
I appreciate all the sanding recommendations.
I’ve got a healthy collection of detail sanding tools which include the mops, flappers, polishers… I’ve found the super-fine wire brush wheels to be fairly efficient… those nylon brushes are an interesting material choice…
Chamfering will also serve an aesthetic purpose on the Baltic birch though. A clean angled cut exposing a glue layer or two on the contours is also a goal.
I may try the Amana replaceable insert v-bits.
Anyone ever use a zero flute countersink bit in a spindle?
Will it handle high rpm’s?
In theory the upper portion of the bore’s cutting edge would actually serve as a down cut, no?
Another thing you could do is cover the carved area with blue tape, or Oramask. That might help with tearout.
In general I’ve had pretty good luck VCarving Baltic…
I have never tried one of those zero flute bits. As long as it’s rated for the RPM you want to use it at you could try it…
I would be hesitant of using a counteraink like that one. The center of it doesn’t cut so it can align with a predrilled hole. One similar to this would allow you to ease edges in a smaller area. I would look at carbide carving burrs as well, definitely rated for higher rpms and the finish is typically very good.
Aleric Countersink Drill Bit Set,High Speed Steel Counter Sinker Drill Bit 5Pcs 5 Flute 6mm Hex Shank with 82 Degree Mill Cutter Bit Countersink Bits for Wood Metal in Size 1/4” 3/8” 1/2” 5/8” 3/4” https://a.co/d/1I1JcKQ
Here’s a detail shot of the square edges of the 0.1" depth pockets. The contours wander very close to one another so getting a 30/45 degree cutting edge down in there would require a 1/8" (ideal) or 1/4" (max) diameter bit.
That’s in interesting idea!
Along with the higher rpms anything else to be aware of with those?
If you still are looking for a downcut v bit take a look at Cadence Manufacturing. They have an interesting bit that might fit your needs. I have one but have not used it yet.
What feed rates are you using? Amana’s RC-1102 insert V-bit has a listed feed rate of 40 ipm, while their 45716 carbide-tipped V-bit is at 90 ipm. I decided not to buy the insert bit based on that difference, but I’m curious if I could run it faster.
That’s definitely an interesting find!
Mind getting back to us on it’s performance?
I never noticed they called out a power feed rate. To be honest for wood and plastics I don’t go by what the bit manufacturer says, I go by cut quality and sound.
I use Vbits mostly for smaller signs and some scene cravings. These tool paths almost never have a straight segment even a half inch long, so they spend most of the time accelerating and wouldn’t get up to a 100 ipm federate very often, unless I was running a very high acceleration setting on my motors, but if I did that the machine shakes too much and the cut quality is bad.
So I usually run acceleration at 15-20 I/s2, and 50 ipm feedrate. That gives me really clean, chatter free cuts on hardwoods that don’t need to be sanded.