Mark Lindsay Build Log

Here’s @MarkLindsayCNC 's build video of his 4x4 machine

@MarkLindsayCNC how close did you follow the assembly instructions? Did you make any adjustments to the table to suit your specific needs?

I recently assembled a 5x10 and I ended up moving a few of the cross members after I was done to accommodate where I wanted my spoilboard. I wish I had put them where I wanted in the beginning, but in the end it only took a little bit extra to move them afterwards.

5 Likes

Thank you @Eric for the shout out! This video is the first half of the build. Part 2 is on my YouTube channel.

I followed the Avid assembly instructions to the letter during the build process, then, like you, I modified the spacing of the crossmembers to accommodate a vertical workholding table (which I haven’t finished yet - more on that soon.)

I just got it trammed yesterday, and surfaced a piece of MDF today to check how good of a job I did on tramming. It’s as close to spot on as I’ll ever get it (I did have to place an .011 shim under the bottom of the tramming mount to adjust the nod on the spindle,) It’s within .0005 in nod and 0.0 in tilt now. And the MDF I surfaced today is so smooth, it’s almost criminal.

If anyone has any questions, feel free to ask, and I’ll do my best to answer.

Thank you!

1 Like

On mine I ended up wanting a lot of space for vertical work:

I ended up pushing a lot of the crossmembers back towards XY zero so I could have the reach I wanted on the end (I still need to get my vertical MDF on there)

To fasten my spoilboard down I did this:

My plan was to raptor nail the spoilboard down to those runners. I tested with some MDF scrap and it worked really well. My actual spoilboard is MEDEX (I had an extra sheet around) and it turns out that the raptor nails don’t like to go through that stuff well. I ended up countersinking and screwing the spoilboard down.

For tramming I did the left and right with the tramming plate. For forward and back I ended up just loosening the bolts on each end of the gantry (the ones that face inwards towards the table) and just used a light tap with a rubber mallet to get the spindle to stand straight up.

@MarkLindsayCNC feel free to drop part 2 here if you want.

1 Like

Here is Part 2 of my Avid 4848 Pro assembly series.

I got the frame finished in Part 1, so it was on to the gantry, Z axis, and electronics. I think the hardest part of the entire process was running the cables. Specifically, getting the cables into the tracks. That’s not a reflection of the difficulty of getting the cables into the tracks. It’s a testament to how easily the rest of the CNC went together. I’m just one old guy working by myself, and I got it finished and jogging on all 3 axes in around 25 hours total.

If I could offer any advise at all to someone who is about to embark on the assembly of their own Avid CNC, it would be to read the assembly instructions once again just before assembling a specific component. It’s easy to miss little details, and having those details fresh in your head as you’re working will save you time and frustration.

Mark

2 Likes

Part 3 of my build series focused on getting the Vertical Work Holding kit and a work table installed.

I installed an MDO board work surface that will serve as a mounting platform for the spoilboard. Then installed the vertical work holding kit, and got the lower crossmember into rough alignment with the upper crossmember. I’ll fine tune the alignment after I get the spoilboard installed and the vertical table mounted.

3 Likes

After surfacing a Douglas Fir slab using my 2 inch diameter surfacing bit, I decided that I needed to up my Z zero game. The problem is, my Amana RC-2255 surfacing bit is too big to fit into the top of the standard Avid 3-Way touch plate. So, I figured why not add a second touch plate into the mix? So, I reached out to @Eric here on the forum, and asked if such a thing were possible. Not only is it possible, it’s downright easy. He squared me right away with the parts and wiring diagram, and 15 minutes after receiving the parts, I had my second touch plate wired in and working. It was such a slick, painless addition, of course I had to make a video about it.

Avid doesn’t list the parts required for this modification in their online store, but if you contact them through the website, they can take care of you.

The parts you’ll need are:

A 4-Pin M12 cable (Male on one end, female on the other) the length of your choice.

A 4-Pin M12 Splitter (Single male to 2 female splitter.)

A 4-Pin M12 Male Field Wireable Straight Connector.

I also added a 5/8 inch diameter magnet for the ground wire, which I got from K&J Magnetics: K&J Magnetics: Standard Mounting Magnets

I also did a bit of digging and sourced the parts (other than the magnet) elsewhere for those who want to shop around. Those links are in the video description over on YouTube.

If I ever decide to venture into cutting aluminum (hey, I’m a wood guy) I’ll make myself a 1 inch thick touch plate, so I don’t have to remember to change the touch plate thickness every time I go to use the second touch plate.

Some may think it’s overkill, but I think it was worth it. It’s speeded up the work, and I now have much more consistent results.

2 Likes