No offense taken SMdesign and definitely none meant either! I am totally new to this game and have a ton to learn so I certainly don’t know it all by any means.
I try to take the logical approach to everything I do, so, stop, backup, simplify and see what happens one step at a time until something breaks and then you have an idea what went wrong. The evidence in this case certainly seems to point to the Gcode coming out of VCarve, but I have no idea why. I’ve probably checked the wrong box, given the wrong answer to something; I’m pretty sure it’s operator error, it usually is. I’ll keep looking and testing and let you know what falls out.
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You can also flip over a router bit and use that (just don’t turn on the spindle)
Or if you’ve made… mistakes… you use a broken router bit 
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Thank you for this information. Much appreciated
Len
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i have had lose screw on the magnet.
were you place magnet matters
and if brand new bit it might have coating
if unsure jog bit down close to touch plate and then by hand lift plate up and make sure mach 4 sees the probe active
Many thanks to the 23 replies I received to my touch plate post. After reviewing all of the responses I was reminded of an intermittent electrical issue I experienced about 40 years ago. In that instance a wire was broken inside the sheathing and the two ends would only make contact periodically. Fast forward 40 years and my touch plate issue was the same. The black wire was broken inside the sheathing. And only making a complete circuit sporadically. After running some continuity checks I realized the issue. A few minutes of repair on the black wire and the problem is resolved. I have only cut four jobs since the repair but all four times the touch plate has worked perfectly.
Once again, thanks for all the responses.
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My ‘Z’ touch sensor works only intermittently. I haven’t debugged it yet, since most of the time I got old school and dial the machine in with a 1-2-3 block. It sure is exciting when you go to touch off and the machine doesn’t sense the contact. I’ve been guessing it has to do with having already run some G-Code and the machine is left in G91 vs a G90 or some such at the end of the program, but I haven’t taken time to sort out if that is the ‘actual’ problem.
I had the same problem too. The wire that connects the magnet wasn’t very tolerant of flexiing and after a year of use the copper strands cracked through inside the insulation. I replaced the wire with a heavier gauge (and a little longer) wire than had finer strands, and I also shrink wrapped the last inch or so because the wire tends to get bent right at the end when you are pulling off the magnet. No issues since.
For those of you having issues with accuracy on one side of the other, make sure there is no dirt/dust between the brass plate and aluminum frame. Its eash to get 10 thousandths worth of junk in there and not see it. I also rub the surface of the brass every couple of months with steel wool just to keep it cleaner so the bit makes good electrical contact w/o having to depress the plate at all.
Finally, as others noted, don’t put the magnet on the collet nut, its not as conductive. Use the bit when possible, and then the spindle shaft if the bit doesn’t work.
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And don’t forget to check your “toolpath”, “tool offsets” to make sure everything is zeroed out!
Ask me how i know this one! 
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Sorry to hear about your troubles. I got my touch plate around the same time and have never had an issue. I’ve used it on an older 2013 machine and a newer 2020 machine.