I’ve been working on building a 5x10 machine recently. I have a 4x8 main table and on the end I’m doing a vertical work holding setup.
Just like with spoilboards, workholding is always going to be different depending on what your preferences are. Here are some examples that I have found, hopefully these are useful to others:
I use a small Saunders Machine Works fixture plate with a 3d printed adapter it connects into horizontal fixture grid I machined out of HDPEwith 1/4-20 threaded inserts. I print 3d soft jaws to hold parts in specific orientations to machine the end grain of different parts. I set work offsets from the aluminum plate.
I’ve seen all of Frank’s videos. My wife finds his awkward laughter amusing.
I figured when my time came to do a vertical mount job, I’d build a jig for it at whatever angle I need. I don’t fathom that I’ll be doing a LOT of it, so I don’t see a need to build something as exquisite as Frank’s table.
I built this one for mine. I wanted a smaller one that didn’t take up the whole front of the machine and wanted to be able to set angles. Simple, but works well.
It can be up against a wall and you can still reach the fixtures and clamps everywhere
Easier to see what is going on
It saves a lot of space. This is a 5x9’ work envelope with 12” z (minus spoilboard). It only takes up 27” of floor space when off.
Cons:
X and Y axis are different motion systems - gantry (Y) for me is ballscrew. X is the CNCRP rack and pinion
Cutting parts totally free is not an option, gotta think about toolpaths a bit to ensure nothing “drops”.
Things like slab flattening, which don’t necessarily need any fixturing at all on a flat machine need a lot of thought due to irregular edges.
The gantry and z axis now have a “swing” that needs to be managed. When it is running, you need to be outside the movement zone. I’ve added several extra E stop buttons to accommodate safety.
My machine/operator console is in the wrong place. I’m not sure what the right place would be in my shop, but for now, a wireless keyboard is very helpful.
Also, this machine is an ATC machine, (not fully set up yet) so my workflow involves a touch probe and preset tools.
I have a PRO4848 with a rotary axis inset at the front.
@jjneeb, did I see correctly in your articulated computer arm video that you have vertical workholding set up through the rotary axis frame? Can I see more of your setup?
I used 1" MDF, but if I make another one, I’ll probably go with two laminated 3/4" sheets just so the dog holes are a little deeper. I put the dog holes at 3" spacing because most of the horizontal dog hole clamps have a little overy 3" of travel, so you can always get a clamp to reach the workpiece.
Thanks for posting this Eric! Had never occurred to me to me just move that front cross member back a few inches!
After spending a couple days with my “drop in “ fixture (repurposed Leigh Jig) and and then another day having issues bending and walking (from having to lean over sideways for clamping and corner finding), I’ve decided this is the best option for me.
Just need a couple more 8020 extrusions. Question: should I specify them in metric (1080 & 1250) or imperial? I’m guessing the kit comes measured in metric?
Yeah, it’s an easy mod to do. I have a 5x10 in my shop and I moved my front one back around 6". I still have room for a rotary in the front, a full 4x8 table, and a sliding toolrack in the back.
Internally we do all of our measurements in MM. You should be able to get any crossmember measurements you need from the instructions. If you need parts we already sell (like crossmembers) you can likely get them directly from us. If you need custom stuff made 8020 will sell them, or you can look at a third company like “Framing tech” (just make sure the extrusion sizing is the same.
