I’ve been working on building a 5x10 machine recently. I have a 4x8 main table and on the end I’m doing a vertical work holding setup.
Just like with spoilboards, workholding is always going to be different depending on what your preferences are. Here are some examples that I have found, hopefully these are useful to others:
I use a small Saunders Machine Works fixture plate with a 3d printed adapter it connects into horizontal fixture grid I machined out of HDPEwith 1/4-20 threaded inserts. I print 3d soft jaws to hold parts in specific orientations to machine the end grain of different parts. I set work offsets from the aluminum plate.
I’ve seen all of Frank’s videos. My wife finds his awkward laughter amusing.
I figured when my time came to do a vertical mount job, I’d build a jig for it at whatever angle I need. I don’t fathom that I’ll be doing a LOT of it, so I don’t see a need to build something as exquisite as Frank’s table.
I built this one for mine. I wanted a smaller one that didn’t take up the whole front of the machine and wanted to be able to set angles. Simple, but works well.
It can be up against a wall and you can still reach the fixtures and clamps everywhere
Easier to see what is going on
It saves a lot of space. This is a 5x9’ work envelope with 12” z (minus spoilboard). It only takes up 27” of floor space when off.
Cons:
X and Y axis are different motion systems - gantry (Y) for me is ballscrew. X is the CNCRP rack and pinion
Cutting parts totally free is not an option, gotta think about toolpaths a bit to ensure nothing “drops”.
Things like slab flattening, which don’t necessarily need any fixturing at all on a flat machine need a lot of thought due to irregular edges.
The gantry and z axis now have a “swing” that needs to be managed. When it is running, you need to be outside the movement zone. I’ve added several extra E stop buttons to accommodate safety.
My machine/operator console is in the wrong place. I’m not sure what the right place would be in my shop, but for now, a wireless keyboard is very helpful.
Also, this machine is an ATC machine, (not fully set up yet) so my workflow involves a touch probe and preset tools.
I have a PRO4848 with a rotary axis inset at the front.
@jjneeb, did I see correctly in your articulated computer arm video that you have vertical workholding set up through the rotary axis frame? Can I see more of your setup?
I used 1" MDF, but if I make another one, I’ll probably go with two laminated 3/4" sheets just so the dog holes are a little deeper. I put the dog holes at 3" spacing because most of the horizontal dog hole clamps have a little overy 3" of travel, so you can always get a clamp to reach the workpiece.
